Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
